Hello and Welcome to our Winter edition of Jen’s Trends!
In this final look at 2024 we explore the futuristic trends of Beaut-AI, Y3K and Cryotherapy and see how they are influencing the products of the future. We talk about the continuation of the macro trend ‘Slow Ageing’ and the sub-trends and product types which fall under its umbrella; and take a deep-dive into our TikTok of Time Kit which was inspired by this theme. The skinification of hair and its latest turn into anti-ageing is explored as is the revival of blusher as the hottest colour cosmetic of the season.
Futuristic
Y3K, short for Year 3000, is one of the hottest trends of the moment – open any social media app and you will be bombarded with Y3K looks and beauty tutorials. This futuristic, almost sci-fi trend is all about embracing the future of AI and Virtual Reality. Y3K beauty popularises holographics, metallics and glitters. Apps such as AI Studio allow you to upload selfies and generate pictures yourself “wearing” futuristic digital clothing and make-up trends.
Mintel’s Beaut-AI trend predictions suggest that AI will play a critical role in the discovery of innovative cosmetic ingredients, while also contributing to the creative process and forecasting of emerging beauty trends [1].
Brands are beginning to see the potential of AI, using it to push the boundaries of product development. Charlotte Tilbury’s perfume collection is being developed using IFF’s Scentcube, an AI algorithm that predicts how a fragrance will impact a person’s emotions and AI-driven formula development is already being used by more than 80% of Shiseido’s researchers.
In clinical skincare AI is having a positive impact. Advanced diagnostic tools powered by AI help consumers identify skin conditions like acne, pigmentation issues, or even early signs of skin cancer. AI-driven apps are now being used to analyse skin images, providing consumers with more accurate assessments of their skin and actionable advice on how to treat specific issues.
Cornelius can help:
This Mintel report inspired our submission for the Laura Marshal Award for Innovation held at SCS Formulate last month. AI was used to guide ingredient selection and formulation for the development of DEO:DECODED, an all over skin care deodorant. AI suggested water-in-silicone cream as the optimal format for a deodorant that worked well on areas with concentrated body hair. Cor-Sil Avance, an advanced water/silicone emulsifier, was used to create the silky feel base which also provides anti-chafe benefits. As well as identifying ingredients, AI-driven product development also extended to packaging design, assisting with cost-effective mock-ups and the creation of sustainable packaging solutions.
For a deep-dive into this fascinating topic, read our blog AI in Personal Care.
Cryonics is an intriguing subject that has been explored extensively in the realms of science fiction as a way to preserve life using extremes of cold. The term “cryonics” was first proposed by Michigan professor Robert Ettinger in 1964 (2). The idea revolves around preserving human bodies at ultra-low temperatures in the hope of future revival. In practise the process raises concerns about cellular damage and the feasibility of revival. Despite this, there are companies offering cryonics services.
Cryotherapy has been used for many years as a medical treatment to destroy abnormal cells. Now it is increasingly being used as a beauty treatment. Technically any kind of ice pack is cold-therapy or cryotherapy but the term is most commonly associated with immersing the whole body in the extreme cold for a specific length of time, especially in ‘cryo-chambers’. Plastic surgeon Dr Yannis Alexandrides is such a fan of the treatment that he founded 111Cryo and has since opened a number of the specialised ice units throughout the UK.
For those who don’t fancy an ice chamber 111SKIN’s latest launch may be worth investigating. Cryo Revitalising Moisturiser is a refreshing gel-cream hailed by fans as ‘cryotherapy in a bottle’. It is said to replicate the rejuvenating effects of cryotherapy while also addressing common concerns like puffiness, dehydration and a lack of elasticity. Clinically proven to increase skin elasticity by 40% and firmness by 47%, it has a host of celebrity fans including Victoria Beckham and Hailey Bieber.
Devotees describe it is as ‘a total beauty game-changer’ and love its immediate cooling and awakening sensation that leaves skin looking sculpted, tightened and radiant.
Cornelius can help:
Cool Touch of Snow is an innovative moisturiser which has been created by our partners CHT. It has a unique texture which feels like snow and a strong cooling effect upon application. It’s star ingredient is CHT-BeauSil™ WAX 069 (stearyl dimethicone) which melts at 32ºC, this body temperature melt point means it gives an instant cooling effect. CHT-BeauSil™ WAXs are a range of alkyl modified polysiloxanes with unique chemical and physical properties including excellent feel, good spreadability and novel performance. They behave more similarly to natural oils and waxes than classic dimethicones and have good compatibility with natural lipids.
Slow Aging and Longevity
Longevity is one of the fastest-growing movements in beauty and wellness. Multi-generational interest in biohacking and age-reversal practises are at an all-time high. Protecting telomere length through diet, reducing inflammation and oxidative stress all combine to slow and reverse the ageing process.
Slow Ageing or pre-aging is a macro trend of huge importance to Gen Z consumers. This group are well informed about external aggressors, pollution and UV exposure. TikTok is a major source of information and influencers who use visually impactful beauty products with instant results make good TikTok viewing. These consumers demand science-first products that work to prevent and delay signs of aging and look out for the following key factors when purchasing:
Sunscreen is a key trending topic for age prevention whilst collagen and peptide containing products are important for healthy skin ageing.
Epigenetics is the study of how external factors and lifestyle affect gene expression. For example, negative factors can accelerate skin aging by down-regulating genes for collagen production. Epigenetic research has led to the development of products and lifestyle regimens that attempt to slow chronological ageing.
Exosomes are extracellular vesicles which mediate intercellular communication and signalling. They carry various molecules, such as proteins, lipids, and RNAs, to help tissue regeneration, reduce inflammation and stimulate collagen, elastin and HA production.
Cornelius can help: Our recent theme at SCS Formulate explored the trend for time, looking at instant and longer term affects achieved with cosmetic products. We also used big TikTok trending products as inspiration for formats and textures in our complimentary kit. The 10 piece kit contains products across the sectors of skin, hair, lip and suncare with products offering instant, mid and long-term effects:
Butter Cleanser has a luxuriously buttery texture that leaves skin super soft and conditioned. It contains mild surfactant NaturalAPG HG0814CM MB which provides gentle cleansing with moderate foaming and aids the rinse-off capabilities of the formulation. It also includes Pink Clay, a natural mineral substance, that combines Illite and Kaolin and has a detoxifying, brightening effect on the skin.
Hot Lips Intense Lip Therapy is a healing and repairing tinted lip treatment which softens and nourishes dry lips. It provides a tingling sensation on application thanks to CorCare VBE a material that accelerates microcirculation, promoting capillary circulation to produce a mild, long-lasting thermal sensation. Meanwhile White Beeswax imparts a rich feel and protects lips, preventing moisture loss and Elara Luxe ELX-21 Corona Magenta provides natural vibrant colour.
Serene Haze Blue & Smooth Primer blurs lines and wrinkles using the latest silicones and silicone elastomers in conjunction with a trio of technologically advanced skincare actives. CHT-BeauSil™ GEL 8014 8014 silicone cross-polymer has a silky skin feel and matte effect that smooths pores and lines.
Protect & Purify Face Mist provides instant tightening whilst shielding the skin from pollution and boosting radiance. It also contains a Nasturtium derived active that improves complexion radiance and limits damage caused by blue light.
DyNAmic Duo Day & Night Cream have longevity and epigenetics at the core of their action. Both products contain a natural active which promotes cellular longevity and regulates cell communication; and another designed to revitalise the epigenome that has been weakened by external aggressors and age.
Additionally, the Day Cream contains Commusys® which allows for Dermis – Epidermis communication by regulating molecular players like exosomes to benefit the skin. Skin is left hydrated, smoothed and radiant.
The Night Cream uses an additional active that restores the expression of the clock circadian gene and promotes radiance, smooths and revitalises tired skin. Results can be seen in 8 hours, the exact amount of time recommended for regenerative beauty sleep!
Summer Sunrise Sun Protection Spray SPF30 has an instant photo-repairing effect and long-term anti-ageing benefits. It contains CHT-BeauSil™ WAX 070 to enhance spreading, reduce tackiness and provides moisturisation and CHT-BeauSil™ WAX 040 that provides a light, elegant feel. Sea Buckthorn Pulp Oil, a hydrating oil high in antioxidant rich vitamins A, C and E and Omega-7, whicah can boost collagen production.
Cooling After Sun Pro-Tanning Cream is a light, elegant cream which rubs in quickly and instantly leaves skin feeling cool and refreshed. It has a strong anti-cellulite action thanks to an active derived from Sacred Lotus flower. The cream also promotes the tanning capabilities of the skin thanks to a natural active ingredient from sweet orange. CorCare ML (Menthyl Lactate) provides the cooling and refreshing feel on application.
Slick Stick Instantly slicks down flyaways and baby hairs. Only a small amount of the powerful formula is needed to tame your mane and it washes out easily compared to standard wax sticks. Sunflower Wax provides hardness and strength to the stick. It also imparts emolliency and helps with film formation. CorOil Grapeseed Refined, a 100% natural and Soil Association approved oil, provides smoothness and tames hair whilst reducing frizz. Cos GREEN Superfine Clay, a 100% active natural ingredient with high levels of minerals and trace elements, aids matte finish and reduces stick oiliness.
Re-Pigmenting & Regrowth Treatment is an ultra-light, easy application formula which rubs easily into scalp with no residue on hair, allowing for immediate styling. Re-pigmenting is achieved thanks to an anti-free radical, pro-pigmenting active and a hair growth active stimulates growth of hair follicles. CHT-BeauSil™ QUAT 212 EM provides moisturization and enhanced hair feel. This microemulsion of modified siloxane is easy to incorporate into aqueous based systems. Gemagique CP-1 is an excellent gelling agent for aqueous systems and emulsions. It creates premium product texture and feel in use with no residue on hair, allowing for immediate styling.
The skinification of hair continues
The concept of “skinification” is now a mainstream one as brands continue to expand and improve the concept. A focus on scalp microbiome is becoming more noticeable and popular skincare materials such as peptides, antioxidants and hyaluronic acid are ever more likely to be found in haircare products. As skin and scalp sensitivity continues to rise, consumers are increasingly seeking dermatologist-tested haircare solutions that protect and nourish without disrupting the scalp barrier.
Leading dermatologist-recommended skincare brand CeraVe have launched their first hair/scalp care line. Formulated in conjunction with dermatologists, CeraVe’s new Anti-Dandruff Shampoo and Conditioner System is designed to tackle ceramide deficiency said to be the cause of dandruff. Skin-identical ceramides and proven anti-dandruff actives, provide relief from itchiness and irritation while enhancing scalp health.
VENN’s Synbiotic Polyamine Shampoo has a hair and scalp focused nourishing and balancing formula. It contains the brands proprietary combination of probiotic, prebiotic, and postbiotic active ingredients as well as key actives Niacinamide, Panthenol, Biotin, Copper and six herbal extracts for hair and scalp. The low-pH, dermatologist tested product cares for the scalp whilst gently but effectively cleansing the hair.
Anti-ageing for hair is an emerging trend to watch. People have always sought to cover greys, which are an early indicator of the ageing process, but new technology works biologically to return hair to its natural colour.
Rootcos Anti-grey Scalp Serum is a lightweight hair serum formulated for the scalp and works in tandem to reverse and limit hair greying and increase melanin production to restore natural hair colour.
Living Proof Scalp Density Serum uses an antioxidant and amino acid blend to reduce the appearance of grey hair and increase hair thickness.
Flushed Blush
Blusher is trending higher than ever, being described by Vogue Business as “make-up’s comeback kid”. Blush represented revenues of US $58.9 million on Amazon between July 2023 and July 2024 WWD reported (3). The Cosmoprof Asia exhibition featured a plethora of blushes in a variety of textures from jellies to liquids and creams to sticks. One such product was created by Thai Beauty brand Cathy Doll in collaboration with Thai artist Give.Me.Museums. The innovative cheek balm is infused with meadowfoam seed oil, rose and camellia seed oils and provides vibrant pay-off.
Cornelus can help:
Our latest colour formulation, Soft Glow Blush Stick is a moisturising cheek and lip tint in a stick format for easy application on the go. It features Hyacolor 3D which comprises three different molecular weights of HA evenly dispersed in an oil phase in the form of microspheres. It hydrates and smooths, reducing fine lines and softening the lips for up to 10 hours. It is an ideal way of incorporating HA into oily stick formulations such as blushers and lipsticks.
Our partner Bloomage offer a range of Hyaluronic acids for different personal care uses.
To conclude, 2024 has seen a sharp uptake in the use of AI as a tool that enables the cosmetics industry to push the boundaries of product development. Now that the ball has been set rolling, these changes will continue at an ever more rapid rate. Biohacking, which has captured the imaginations of multiple generations, will be improved with the aid of AI and we’ll continue to see ever more sophisticated raw materials designed to halt and reverse the ageing process. Exciting times are ahead for the industry and consumers alike.
Contact your sales representative or email us: sales.enquiries@cornelius.co.uk to receive the TikTok of Time presentation, including all formulations.
References
[1] Mintel, (2024). Beauty AI. Incosmetics.
[2] Exploring the Future of Cryonics: From Sci-Fi Dreams to Reality
[3] Beautystreams Cosmoprof Asia Trends 2024