By Jennifer Hermitage, Market and Application Chemist
Welcome to the Summer 2024 edition of Jen’s Trends. In this article we explore the trend for healthy glowing skin and take a look at our new Glow Up kit which contains seven products dedicated to the pursuit of a bright and healthy complexion.
We also take a look at Gen Z’s new obsession with futureproofing their skin against signs of ageing, as well as the related trends of longevity and biohacking, which are very much in the spotlight at present. Skin sensitivity continues as a common consumer concern, and we take a look at the plethora of products available to tackle this.
Glow
Summer skin is synonymous with glow and right now the desirability of glow-y skin is at an all-time high. Search the word “glow” on Look Fantastic and over 2000 results pop up, with products ranging from Pixi’s famous Glow Tonic Toner through to Armani’s Luminous Silk Glow Blush, a blusher that imparts sheen.
The Nip + Fab Glow Up Starter Kit is a capsule kit aimed at those who want to banish dullness and dehydration and embrace a glowing complexion. It comprises Ceramide Fix Cleansing Balm, Vitamin C Fix Concentrate Extreme 15%, Ceramide Fix Overnight Cream 12%, and Illuminate SPF 30 Moisturiser.
This summer Avon have launched their Glow Beauty Box. It contains seven of the brand’s bestselling beauty buys, including: Skin So Soft Original, the No.1 best-selling quick-drying dry oil spray; Nourishing Lip Oil with its non-sticky, luxe finish; Anew Daily Defence Vitamin C SPF 50 Moisturiser, a multi-tasking primer that provides dewy finish hydration and protects from UV rays; Anew Vitamin C Serum, a powerful lightweight serum that wakes up skin’s radiance with just 2-3 drops under moisturiser.
Glowing, radiant skin can be attained with a plethora of products available from numerous brands. Consumers can get the look instantly with the use of colour cosmetics and fake tans. This “fake it till you make it” approach is a wonderful quick fix and, to get really healthy glowing skin for the long haul, a myriad of skincare products exist to achieve this goal.
Cornelius can Help: Discover our New Trend Kit
Our new Glow Up kit comprises seven products to promote glowing healthy skin whilst tapping into the broader trends of pre-ageing and prejuvenation.
Glow, Glow, Glow Tanning Drops can be added to a favourite moisturiser to provide a healthy glow. They contain CorTan DHA and CorTan DHB to provide natural, buildable colour and BIOTANNING®, an active derived from sweet orange, which accelerates skin pigmentation, stimulating the synthesis of melanin whilst ensuring the photoprotection of skin cells.
Pre-ageing Daily Defence BB Cream utilises CorTan DBT to provide broad spectrum UV protection and Pretiox UVS 30, which allows for superior, non-whitening UV absorption. Together they achieve a predicted SPF 20. Also included is up-cycled, cotton derived HELIOMODULINE® to limit damage to DNA, reducing cell ageing. Specially coated HSA iron oxides provide ease of formulating and colour matching.
Luscious Lip Therapy is a healing and repairing lip treatment containing GLYCO-REPAIR® to reactivate the natural processes of skin repair. This formula renews skin tissue, softens, nourishes, and reduces dry skin on lips.
Botox in a Bottle provides instant tightening, plus a reduction in expression lines after five days of continuous use. It utilises MYOLINE®, a natural myorelaxing ingredient, derived from watercress, that reduces muscle contractions for a botox-like effect, and FILMEXEL®, a film forming ingredient which provides instant tightening along with protection from exogenous agents. It also contains Sodium Hyaluronate HMW (HA-THM), a high molecular weight sodium hyaluronate which provides exceptional moisturisation and prevents TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss.)
Glow Tonic is a brightening tonic that can be used morning and evening to help with the shedding of dead skin cells and reveal a brighter, more even complexion. Containing Prickly Pear derived EXFOLACTIVE® EL, it boosts the natural exfoliation of the skin and promotes cell renewal for optimal barrier function. This is combined with Oligo HA, an ultra-low molecular weight HA that is deeply hydrating.
Second Skin Spot Treatment is a targeted spot treatment which utilises the power of ACNESIUM®, part of SILAB’s Softcare range which has been developed for the care of compromised skin, to restore the equilibrium of acneic skin by reducing bacterial growth, regulating sebaceous gland activity, and neutralising inflammation by limiting key inflammatory responses. It also contains Pecogel S-1120/A, which is a cosmetic polymer that holds the treatment in place and forms a protective film.
SOS Soothing Balm is designed for use on areas of irritation or for all-over use on sensitised skin. It contains NEUROFENSE®, a soothing active derived from the roots of red sage which is highly resistant to the cold. It acts on biological components of skin sensitivity – hyper-reactivity, skin barrier, inflammation – and restores comfort and protection to sensitive skin. A cooling effect on application is achieved with the use of CHT-BeauSil Wax 069 which melts at 32ºC. This body temperature melting point is what gives the product its instant cooling sensation. This speciality material is produced by our German based partner CHT, a global producer of speciality silicone materials, including silicone elastomers and silicone emulsions. Their extensive portfolio is created via a broad range of chemistries. Additionally, they offer bespoke products and tailored formulation support.
Vitamin C is the raw material most closely associated with glow. In addition to providing radiance, this multi-tasker has anti-inflammatory properties, helps reduce the signs of early ageing, and accelerates the skin’s production of collagen and elastin. Little wonder that household and indie brands alike have whole ranges based upon this versatile vitamin. However, vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, presents its challenges as a raw material. Once in formulation it is very susceptible to oxidation. This degradation is influenced by several factors including oxygen, light, temperature, formulation viscosity, and pH.
Cornelius can help: SILAB’s RIDULISSE C® provides Vitamin C-like benefits without the associated formulation challenges. This active ingredient from soya boosts the synthesis of collagen I, providing anti-wrinkle benefits suitable for all anti-aging skin care treatments.
Preventative Ageing
As we grow older, the biological processes in our body slow down and signs of ageing appear. Genetics play a big role in this, but environmental and lifestyle factors can accelerate these processes to cause premature ageing.
Younger consumers are increasingly wise to the culprits that cause us to age and are incorporating preventative and rejuvenating steps into their daily beauty routines. A survey by The Pull Agency found that 60% of Gen Zs purchase beauty products before they are 14 years old, compared to just 39% of millennials and 23% of those over 55.
Well-informed about external aggressors which accelerate the process of skin ageing such as pollution, blue light, lack of sleep, and UV exposure, young consumers begin to protect the general health of their skin from an increasingly early age.
On TikTok, Gen Z avidly demonstrates how to implement skin care routines that focus on using anti-ageing ingredients and introduce targeted routines long before they notice any signs of ageing. As Gen Z has become one of the largest consumer groups in beauty, skincare brands are eager to better cater to their need of futureproofing their skin, by offering them targeted ingredients and formulations to combat environmental stressors and prevent premature ageing.
One of the best things we can do for our skin to prevent signs of ageing is to protect it from the sun. For many years research has shown that 80-90% of how old (or young) we look is down to our levels of sun exposure. One study over the course of 11 years compared 60-year-old identical twins who had profound differences in levels of sun exposure. The twin who had around 10 hours a week more exposure was perceived to be 11.25 years older than the other twin. (5)
A good SPF is undoubtedly the best preventative measure for avoiding premature ageing. Modern SPFs provide very high UV protection, are light, non-greasy, leave no white cast, and usually provide a good level of glow. There are many to choose from.
L’Oreal Paris Revitalift Clinical SPF 50+ Anti UV Fluid is a popular choice for those with sensitive skin. It has received celebrity endorsement from Love Island star Zara McDermott who likes its non-greasy texture and compatibility with her sensitive skin. The ultra-lightweight formula is also a favourite with Amazon purchasers, receiving a 4.5/5 star rating.
No7 Future Renew™ Defence Shield UV SPF 50 has a lightweight, invisible finish that leaves skin looking and feeling hydrated. It’s formulated with the highest levels of UV protection combined with peptides and Sodium Hyaluronate. It doesn’t leave a white cast on any skin tone and is fast absorbing.
Cornelius can help: Our CorTan DBT is a broad spectrum UV absorber, absorbing both UVA and UVB rays. Pretiox UVS 30 from our partner Precheza is a mineral sunscreen that provides superior non-whitening UV absorption. It’s surface treated to provide greater stability with negligible photoactivity and OH radical formation. Our partner Erca Wilmar’s Ercarel AB is a superior sunscreen solubiliser which makes for easy formulating with powdered sunscreen filters.
Longevity & Biohacking
Eternal youth is the stuff of myths and legends – but if today’s scientists have anything to do with it, then it will become an attainable reality within our lifetimes.
Within the field of cell research Dr David Sinclair, Harvard Genetics Professor and co-founder of several biotech companies, and a team of scientists used cellular reprograming to reinstate youthful function and rejuvenate old cells in the eyes of mice – successfully restoring vision in a mouse version of glaucoma.(2) Their process, REVIVER (recovery of information via epigenetic reprograming) has shown that old tissue can ‘keep’ a record of youthful epigenetic information that can be accessed for functional age reversal.(3)
Biohacking is a fast-growing biotechnology movement based on the idea that we can ‘hack’ our body’s inner workings through lifestyle changes (4). The idea is not a new one, but new innovations have made the concept cheaper and therefore more accessible to a much broader audience. Biohacking practices can encompass anything from gene editing to regenerative medicine, but most focus has been aimed at the development of anti-ageing products and practices. As consumers become more educated on the subject, the terms senescence, epigenetics, and microbiome are becoming much more widely discussed and understood. You can read more about biohacking in our blog here.
Senescence in humans is the state or process of ageing. In the case of individual cells, senescence means cells can no longer divide. Cellular senescence is caused by telomere (sequences of DNA) erosion and other types of DNA damage. In the skin, as a fibroblast divides, it ages and when it has consumed its division capital it enters senescence – it no longer divides but remains metabolically active. It secretes inflammatory molecules, altering the functioning of surrounding cells and progressively inducing skin ageing. The synthesis of extra-cellular matrix components weakens, the dermis loses density, and epidermal renewal becomes more difficult. This results in wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and a dull complexion.
Senescent cells are usually eliminated by the immune system, but some senescent fibroblasts are known as immunoevasive, and they implement clever tactics to avoid being killed off. They cleave the surface of the ‘eat me’ signal (MICA) which is recognised by the immune system, and they increase the expression of a death-inhibiting protein on their surface (HLA-E) through the production of interlukin-6 (IL-6). These ‘zombies’ remain un-eliminated and persist in the dermis, causing deterioration.
Much anti-senescence research has been conducted in recent years with a significant branch of study looking at the longevity of super-centenarians – those who have lived to 110 and older in good health. Their secret weapon lies in the power of their immune system. Their cutaneous immune (natural killer) cells effectively locate and break apart senescent cells, neutralising their damaging consequences.
Cornelius can help: Our partner SILAB have created SENEVISIUM®, an active ingredient extracted from Gingko biloba leaves. By circumventing the immunoevasion strategies put in place by senescent fibroblasts, it reactivates their natural elimination by the immune system and preserves matrix synthesis and epidermal renewal. The skin thus recovers its density and elasticity for an anti-wrinkle and radiance-boosting action.
Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin is a common problem. It’s often characterised by redness and irritation, but that is only part of the story says Dr Anjali Mahto. She clarifies that sensitive skin is usually associated with how your skin feels, compared to what it is: “sensitivity mostly affects the skin on your face and is characterised by sensations of burning, stinging, tightness, pain or itching. The skin may also look red when symptoms appear”, she explains. (5)
Sensitive skin is very reactive to environmental factors, such as pollution and temperature change, as well as what you put onto your skin – perfume and soap are common triggers.
Sensitivity can arise when nerves in the top layer of skin become irritated, which is a consequence of poor barrier function. Damaged barrier function is a temporary problem often caused by over-zealous exfoliating or the rapid introduction of an active ingredient, such as retinol. Once the culprit is eliminated, skin will revert to normal in a short amount of time. However, ongoing sensitivity issues may be caused by underlying problems such as eczema, acne, or rosacea, so it is vital to understand the cause in order to treat the issue successfully.
Truly sensitive skin benefits from a pared-back, perfume-free routine, and steering clear of exfoliants, both physical and chemical. La Roche-Posay was originally founded to help people with skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis, positioning it as one of the most trusted brands to help soothe and treat sensitivity. Their Toleraine range, infused with the brand’s signature thermal water, is said to keep skin protected and calm with continued use. The Ordinary’s Soothing and Barrier Support Serum is formulated with fatty acids and vitamin B12, which will restore the integrity of the skin barrier, helping to reduce irritation and dehydration. Cultured’s Biome Calm Cream treats the skin as an ecosystem, helping it to help itself by tackling issues at their source, encouraging the skin to become stronger and healthier.
Cornelius can help: We have a unique selection of efficacious ingredients and formulations for the treatment for sensitive skin.
SILAB’s extensive range includes a number of options for sensitive and compromised skin, these include for example: MEDIACALM® that reduces the inflammation by limiting the activity of inflammation markers. Thanks to calming properties, it soothes skin after single or repeated stresses and restores the normal skin sensitivity threshold; and ECOBIOTYS®, obtained from yeast isolated from the porcelain flower, rebalances the microbiota of mature skin by reinforcing the immune and mechanical barriers of the skin and acting on the distribution of bacterial communities. The quality of the skin barrier is thereby improved, and the complexion is enhanced.
Our Blue Tansy Oil imparts an attractive blue colour at low usage levels. Its primary components, sabinene and camphor, reduce inflammation and helps repair damaged skin.
Argile Du Velay’s Green Clay is COSMOS approved and mined in France, possessing anti-inflammatory, healing, and regenerating properties. Our Activated Charcoal is derived from Sri Lankan coconut shell and has been steam treated to activate its detoxifying, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties.
The beauty industry continues to grow and diversify, meeting the challenges of consumer demand, which becomes ever more specific in its wants and needs. Whether looking for solutions to more traditional skincare concerns such as sensitivity, or branching out into the evolving world of biohacking and preventative ageing, consumers find themselves with more options than ever to meet these requirements.
At Cornelius we have the expertise and know-how to support manufacturers and brands alike capitalise upon these growing opportunities. Critically, our portfolio of ingredients is underscored by a foundation of data to demonstrate the efficacy of the required claims. Enquire below to learn more about the formulations and ingredients we’re proud to offer. You can also reach out to us if you’re looking for support in formulation from one of our experts on how to navigate the increasingly smart cosmetic market.
References:
- Sensica UK, ‘How Much Does the Sun Really Age Your Skin?’, Sensica UK. Available at: https://sensica.co.uk/magazine/how-much-does-the-sun-really-age-your-skin/ (Accessed: June 2024).
- Forbes, ‘Will You Live To 200? Five Levels Of Breakthroughs In Longevity Research You Must Know About’. Available at: https://www.forbes.com (Accessed: June 2024).
- Forbes, ‘Will You Live To 200? Five Levels Of Breakthroughs In Longevity Research You Must Know About’. Available at: https://www.forbes.com (Accessed: June 2024).
- Royal Society of Biology. (2023) ‘Focus on: Biohacking’, The Biologist. Available at: https://www.rsb.org.uk/biologist-features/focus-on-biohacking (Accessed: June 2024).
- Women’s Health, ‘Best skincare for sensitive skin 2024, recommended by an expert’, Women’s Health Magazine. Available at: https://www.womenshealthmag.com (Accessed: June 2024).